When we were contacted about making a custom rocking ink blotter, our first reaction was, “A rocking what?”. A little internet research revealed that many ink blotters available commercially haven’t changed since Bob Cratchit was using them.

Something a little different was in order, so I started sketching a few concepts up. The main idea behind an ink blotter is securing a strip of blotting paper over a curved surface so it can be rolled across freshly penned script. The archaic look of traditional ink blotters didn’t make much of a statement, especially if it is meant to be kept out on the desk. Compact forms and a different way of attaching the clamping top gave this blotter a fresher look without compromising functionality.

How it Works

Removing or adding a strip of blotting paper is simple. Pull the pin out and the springy top releases the paper as it’s removed. Simply reverse to install a new strip.

The curve is not a half-circle. I made it as two conics that are tangent at the center, giving the blotter a bit of a flatter middle that gradually increases in curvature toward the ends. This gave the rolling action a nice slow pace at the middle, and allowed the blotter to engage and disengage at any comfortable angle without exceeding the edge.

The paper is very secure with just a small amount of pressure from the curved plywood piece. I considered adding textured material to the top of the main body where the paper wraps, but it was not necessary.

Wooden body

I wanted to be sure the curve of the blotter was perfect and symmetrical. I used a cad drawing as a glue-on template for cutting out the cross section.

I used a bandsaw to cut as close to the template as possible. Three pieces of Hickory were cut and stacked to create a thicker block.

I cut a slot for the steel bar to fit into the block before gluing up. After dry fitting the bar, I glued and clamped the three pieces overnight.

These Jorgensen Gear Clamps have quickly become my favorite new clamp. The exert an incredible amount of pressure very quickly with a squeeze on the handle. The only thing I’d change is making the rubber scuff pads have some sort of mechanical attachment point to keep them from constantly slipping off.

I belt sanded the outside to match up all three layers with each other.

A large diameter drum on the spindle sander took care of the inner curve.

After final sanding, the block was looking very nice. The Hickory’s end grain is very hard, perfect for a rolling surface.

Veneer

I wrapped the base in cling wrap and glued up 10 layers of veneer on top of it. When gluing your own plywood pieces, make sure the grain alternates on each layer to provide plenty of strength and structure.

I used a series of clamps at first, but the most important bit was the weighted leather strap that pulled down evenly on the veneer stack. I eventually took the clamps off and just let the belt do most of the work.

After the glue dried for a day, I cut the curved plywood to proper size on the band saw. Always be careful when cutting something like this on a bandsaw to keep contact with the table or throat plate while cutting. Never cut something “in the air” on a bandsaw.

Metal and peg

I used a ball peen hammer to create a handmade look on the steel bar. The original extruded look was too cold and manufactured looking.

I heat blackened the steel to help resist rusting before applying a clear coat on top.

The steel was cut to the exact height needed for lightly pressurizing the plywood and glued into the lower portion of the ink blotter.

I made a pin out of walnut just to add a little contrast to the top of the blotter. I just got a Grizzly mini lathe a few months ago, and look for any excuse to use it.

The peg is held in place by the pressure of the plywood arc. It doesn’t need to seat fully into the steel bar to be effective.

Finishing up

I test fitted everything and lightly sketched some lines where I wanted the finger groove to go.

Some quick worth with my RO sander and we have grooves!

A few coats of wipe-on gloss polyurethane seals and protects the wood.

I used the laser to engrave “SS” in the corner. A symmetrical character was chosen so it would read properly in both up and down orientations.

The finished engraving had great color contrast and depth in the plywood top.

Ready for some serious blotting action!

Just as a courtesy note, this was a personal project, and we do not intend to sell these cases in the Tinkering Monkey store. But, feel free to make your own just like this one, or improve upon it! We’d love to see photos if you do.